Fill up the fuel tank and “dry-start” the engine for about 5 seconds with the carburetor in idle position and without applying the glow plug driver; this allows the fuel to reach the engine. Then apply the glow plug driver and start the engine.
The engine should fire up immediately.
If the engine does not fire up immediately, check the fuel line to see if fuel is reaching the carburetor.
If fuel is not reaching the carburetor, remove the glow plug driver, cover the exhaust tailpipe and “dry-start” the engine for about 3 seconds.
This will build extra pressure in the line to the fuel tank, causing the fuel to be pushed to the carburetor.
Apply the glow plug driver and start the engine.
Once the engine has started apply a little throttle and allow the engine to warm up to operating temperature.

To stop your engine when it's running at idle speed the best way is to close the holes of you INS-box or close the airfilter with your tumb.
When your engine is screaming due radio interference, close the little pipe of the exhaust with a piece of cloth, never try to stop it while pushing your shoe at the fly wheel.

A gas powered engine requires careful running in to allow the internal parts to achieve proper operating clearances.
Enrich the fuel-mixture from factory position by turning the main needle 1/2 turn counter-clockwise.
Run the car up to half-speed (at most) using moderate acceleration.
Do this for 4 - 5 tanks of fuel.
On the next 3 tanks of fuel, slowly increase the speed and acceleration, and start leaning the main needle setting by turning the needle clockwise.

Your idle speed adjustment screw is incorrectly tuned.
When you apply full brakes, the carburetor opening must not be completely shut off.

Your engine is running too lean.
Because not enough fuel is getting through the carburetor, the engine runs too hot and shuts off by itself.
The high-speed needle must be adjusted so more fuel gets to the engine.

The right engine temperature will vary widely, depending on the air temperature, fuel used, altitude, driving style, air flow conditions of the body and several other factors.
There is absolutely no way anyone can tell you an ideal engine temperature.
It is generally accepted that a proper range of temperatures is between 95 and 140 degrees Celsius (or about 203 and 284 degrees Fahrenheit).
The biggest variable of all in measuring engine temperature is where and how the measurement is taken.
Your infrared thermometer may be calibrated completely different than ours, or you may be pointing at a different spot on the head.
We usually check the temperature pointing the infrared on the glow plug.

The exhaust system has 2 functions: to silence the engine and to optimize the performance of the engine. Silencing is determined by the design and constructions of the pipe (i.e., the number of chambers and the diameter of the tailpipe), while performance is governed by the shape and length of the exhaust system.
Shortening the length of the exhaust system will improve top-speed performance at the expense of some bottom-end torque.
Lengthening the length of the exhaust system will improve bottom-end torque at the expense of some top-speed performance.
However, shortening or lengthening the exhaust system beyond a certainpoint will dramatically decrease performance.

The fastest way to know if your engine is running properly is to read the glow plug and the under head.
It is usually possible to take out a new glow plug of an engine and look at it closely to see if the engine is running too rich, too lean, etc. Using a new glow plug, install it in the engine you want to test.
Run the engine for a full tank of fuel at race speeds.
When the engine runs rich the wire is wet and shiny and the under head is white coloured.
Normally when the engine runs lean the wire is dry and out of shape; the surface of the under head could be damaged.
The wire is lightly wet and shiny and the under head is gold coloured when your engine is well tuned.

Sometimes the wire looks good but it is broken.
To know it check the condition of the glow plug by taking it out of the engine and applying a glow plug driver to it.
The coils of the spiral wire should glow a bright orange-white.
If the glow plug wire does not glow, check the battery in the glow plug driver by testing a new glow plug.
If the glow plug driver cannot cause the wire on a new glow plug to glow brightly, replace the battery.
Broken glow plugs are typically caused by running the engine too lean.
Always unscrew the main needle setting after you have experienced a glow plug failure.

Only use commercially available fuel formulated for model engines.
Composition fuel after the running :
1/8 ON ROAD / RALLY-GT:
25% nitro + 6% castrol oil + 4% synthetic oil + 65% pure methanol
1/10 TOURING:
16% nitro + 6% castrol oil + 4% synthetic oil + 74% pure methanol
1/8 OFF ROAD:
25% nitro / 3% castrol oil / 7% synthetic oil / 65% pure methanol
33% nitro / 3% castrol oil / 7% synthetic oil / 57% pure methanol
MARINE:
25-30% nitro / 6% castrol oil / 4% synthetic oil / 60-65% pure methanol
PLANE:
10% nitro / 10% castrol oil / 10% synthetic oil / 70% pure methanol
HELICOPTER: See sheet user manual
Before using the fuel, shake the fuel can thoroughly to blend the oil and nitro with the methanol.
Do not leave the fuel can open for long periods, as methanol quickly absorbs moisture from the air.
This degrades the quality of the fuel, and increases the potential of corrosion forming inside the engine.
Do not use fuel that has been unused for 6 months or longer.

In case of using bad fuel, like above, we cannot give any warranty on our product.

We have not found any special properties or advantages of using these running in fuels.
We use and recommend regular fuel to break in engines, using the same nitro content and brand fuel that we will run in the engine when racing.
If you run in your engines with normal commercial fuel we suggest to add an extra percentage of oil.

For the first litre of fuel add 5% oil (2,5% syntetic (NOVAROSSI 1.T2) and 2,5% normal (NOVAROSSI 1.T3) );
The second litre of fuel add 3% oil (same specification as mentioned above);
The third litre of fuel, add 2% oil.

A Novarossi engine requires little maintenance as long as the engine does not overheat and proper fuel and air filter areused.

After each run:

dry up any fuel that may remain inside the engine;
wash the engine (when it is cold) using a mixture of petrol and oil at 10%;
clean the air filter or replace it if necessary;
add a high grade “after run” oil into the engine to avoid internal corrosion.

After run oil is a special oil that is meant to be used when an engine is to be stored for more than a week and not run.
Take off the air filter and glow plug, and drop about 5 drops of oil into each opening. Rotate the flywheel several complete rotations (pull the pullstarter spring or turn the flywheel on a starter box) to cycle the oil throughout the engine's internal parts.
We highly recommend using after run oil on any engine that you do not plan to run for more than a week.
Do not use a lubricant like WD-40 or oil that contains silicones on the internal surfaces of your nitro engine. We recommend Novarossi after run oil (code:1m1).

The air filter is a critical component of your engine.
A properly maintained air filter is essential to the life and performance of the engine.
Never run your engine without an air filter because dust and dirt will enter the engine and severely damage it.
Always use air filter oil on your air filter; the oil softens the foam, allowing it to trap dirt more easily.
Do not let your foam air filter become dried out.
Apply some air filter oil to the foam and rub the foam between your fingers to work in the oil.
Make sure that the air filter is completely oiled and stays so at all times.
To clean the air filter, take the foam filter element out of the rubber boot and use an appropriate cleaner to rinse the dirt from the foam element.
Use your fingers to work the dirt out of the foam.
When all the dirt particles are removed (this may take several rinses), apply a small amount of foam element air filter oil.
Install the foam element in the rubber air filter boot, making sure that the foam is fully seated in the boot with no open spaces around it that air can leak through.

Not enough cooling, running too lean, improper air filtration and cheap fuel cause quickly worn out of your engine.

The solutions:

Not enough cooling: If you don't have enough airflow over the head you won't be able to keep the engine cool.
Cut out your body according to the organizers rules.
Engine temperatures over 115°C (240°F) will cause the engine to wear quickly.

Running too lean... adjust the carb as often as needed so that you see the right trail of smoke at full speed.
Running it too lean on the top end will overheat the engine.

Improper air filtration: keep your air filter clean and oiled, upgrade to a high performance air filter (for instance Novarossi air filter code 30001or 34350) if you run in areas with excessive dust.

Cheap fuel: don't use cheap fuel.
Not all fuels are the same, some have less oil than others.
Too much oil will bog down the engine at idle and decrease performance, not enough oil will make the engine wear more quickly.
The fuel is what lubricates and cools the engine, don't skimp on quality.

Carburetor settings for .21/.28 Off-road engines:
The carburetor of our NOVA/REX/TOP Engines are set at the factory with an vacuum measuring tool, before they are put in box, to obtain an setting for an easy start of your engine.
If you are in trouble with your carburetor setting, this is a simple way to get back to the initial factory setting positions.



The High Speed Needle (A) is in charge to adjust the quantity of fuel necessary for the engine when the slide of the carburetor is full opened.
For a correct position, turn the needle-valve (clockwise)until it stops. It's the fully closed position
(WARNING: do not force it to close it any futher, it will damage the needle!).
The High Speed Needle position is approximately 3,5 turns opened from the fully closed position.




The Low Speed Needle (B)situated on the throttle is in charge to adjust the fuel flow when the throttle valve is moving with the throttle servo.
The position of the Low Speed Needle must be flush with the housing.




The Idle screw (C) of your carburetor is used to adjust the air flow when the throttle is in the closed position (minimum RPM idle speed).
It must be turned to obtain a throttle setting of approximately 0.6 mm open once the throttle valve is closed




WARNING:
These settings help you to start your engine and are on the rich side, you still need to adjust your carburetor to get optimal performance.
This can varie on many different things like the fuel you use, the weather, tracks and your driving style.
PICTURES ARE JUST INDICATIVE.

The carburetor of our NOVA/REX/TOP Engines are set at the factory with an vacuum measuring tool, before they are put in box, to obtain an setting for an easy start of your engine.
If you are in trouble with your carburetor setting, this is a simple way to get back to the initial factory setting positions.


The High Speed Needle (A) is in charge to adjust the quantity of fuel necessary for the engine when the throttle valve of the carburetor is full opened.
For a correct position, turn the needle-valve (clockwise) until it stops. Now it is fully closed.
(WARNING: do not force it to close it any futher, it will damage the needle!).

The High Speed Needle position is approximately 5 turns opened from the fully closed position.
If you want to reposition the fuel nipple we suggest to use the following method:
- Replace the 2 aluminium rings (part number: 11016);
- Re-position the fuel nipple and tighten the needle support with 1,5Nm load;
- Check if the 2 aluminium rings are replaced and that there is no leakage.

The Low Speed Needle (B) situated on the throttle is in charge to adjust the fuel flow when the throttle valve is moving with the throttle servo.
The position of the Low Speed Needle has to be opened 2,5 turns from a fully closed position.


The Idle screw (C) of your carburetor is used to adjust the air flow when the throttle valve is in the closed position (minimum RPM idle speed).

It must be turned to obtain a throttle setting of approximately 0.5mm open once the throttle is closed.
If needed, remove the venturi.


WARNING:
These settings help you to start your engine and are on the rich side, you still need to adjust your carburetor to get optimal performance.
This can vary on many different things like the fuel you use, the weather, tracks and your driving style.
PICTURES ARE JUST INDICATIVE.

The carburetor of our NOVA/REX/TOP Engines are set at the factory with an vacuum measuring tool, before they are put in box, to obtain a setting for an easy start of your engine.
If you are in trouble with your carburetor setting, this is a simple way to get back to the initial factory setting positions.


The High Speed Needle (A) is in charge to adjust the quantity of fuel necessary for the engine when the slide of the carburetor is full opened.
For a correct position, turn the needle-valve (clockwise) until it stops. It's the fully closed position.
(WARNING: do not force it to close it any futher, it will damage the needle!).

The High Speed Needle position is approximately 3,5 turns opened from the fully closed position.
If you want to reposition the fuel nipple we suggest to use the following method:
- Replace the 2 aluminium rings (part number: 11016);
- Re-position the fuel nipple and tighten the needle support with 2,3Nm load;
- Check if the 2 aluminium rings are replaced and there is no leakage.

The Low Speed Needle (B) situated on the throttle is in charge to adjust the fuel flow when the throttle valve is moving with the throttle servo.
The position of the Low Speed Needle must be opened 5 turns from a fully closed position.

The Idle screw (C)of your carburetor is used to adjust the air flow when the throttle is in the closed position (minimum RPM idle speed).
It must be turned to obtain a throttle setting of approximately 0.6 mm open once the throttle valve is closed.
Remove the venturi if needed.



WARNING:
These settings help you to start your engine and are on the rich side, you still need to adjust your carburetor to get optimal performance.
This can vary on many different things like the fuel you use, the weather, tracks and your driving style.
PICTURES ARE JUST INDICATIVE.

The carburetor of our REX Engines are set at the factory with an vacuum measuring tool, before they are put in box, to obtain an setting for an easy start of your engine.

If you are in trouble with your carburetor setting, this is a simple way to get back to the initial factory setting positions.

The 10350 REX carburettor has only one adjustment and no in-flight adjustment.
The diameter is 8,5mm and is made from alluminium.

This carburettor can be found on the following engines:
- R50H (Out of Production)
- R50H2 (Out of Production)
- R50F

The High Speed Needle (A) needs to be from a fully closed position turned open 2 full turns.



The Low Speed Needle (B) needs to be from a fully open position closed by 1 3/4 turns.

---

The 10401 REX carburettor has two adjustments and comes with in-flight adjustment.
The diameter is 9mm and is made from alluminium.

This carburettor can be found on the following engines:
- R60H4T (Out of Production)
- R60H4T1 (Out of Production)
- R60H4T2 (Out of Production)
- R60H4T3 (Out of Production)
- R75H (Out of Production)
- R75H1 (Out of Production)
- R61F
- R75F
- R91F



The High Speed Needle (A) needs to be from a fully open position closed by 7 1/2 turns.




The Low Speed Needle (B) needs to be from a fully open position closed by 1 1/2 turns.

---

The 10402 REX carburettor has two adjustments and comes with in-flight adjustment.
The diameter is 10mm and is made from alluminium.
This carburettor can be found on the following engines:
- R60V2H5 (Out of Production)
- R61H (Out of Production)


The High Speed Needle (A) needs to be from a fully open position closed by 7 1/2 turns.




The Low Speed Needle (B) needs to be from a fully open position closed by 2 turns.












WARNING:
These settings help you to start your engine and are on the rich side, you still need to adjust your carburetor to get optimal performance.
This can vary on many different things like the fuel you use and the weather for instance.

PICTURES ARE JUST INDICATIVE.

The carburetor of our REX Engines are set at the factory with an vacuum measuring tool, before they are put in box, to obtain an setting for an easy start of your engine.

If you are in trouble with your carburetor setting, this is a simple way to get back to the initial factory setting positions.

The 10097 REX carburettor has only one adjustment and no in-flight adjustment.
The diameter is 6,5mm and is made from alluminium.

This carburettor can be found on the following engine:
- 09.20/C

The High Speed Needle (A) needs to be from a fully closed position turned open 2 full turns.



The Low Speed Needle (B) needs to be from a fully open position closed by 2 1/2 turns.

---

The 75000 REX carburettor has only one adjustment and no in-flight adjustment.
The diameter is 6,5mm and is made from alluminium.

This carburettor can be found on the following engine:
- R PLUS 213/FT
- R PLUS 217/FT
- R528F

The High Speed Needle (A) needs to be from a fully closed position turned open 2 full turns.



The Low Speed Needle (B) needs to be from a fully open position closed by 2 1/2 turns.
















WARNING:
These settings help you to start your engine and are on the rich side, you still need to adjust your carburetor to get optimal performance.
This can vary on many different things like the fuel you use and the weather for instance.

PICTURES ARE JUST INDICATIVE.

The NOVAROSSI BallBearingExtractor is sold assembled and is very easy to use.

When using the following guidelines you can remove the ballbearings in a matter of minutes.

These steps below aplies to all 2,1cc ~ 4,66cc NOVA, REX and TOP engines.

Preparations: Before you start to remove any ball bearing from your engine, remove the:
1 - rear cover;
2 - glowplug;
3 - coolinghead;
4 - combustion chamber;
5 - sleeve, piston&conrod;
6 - crankshaft.

Even if you only need to change the rear ballbearing you need to remove the front ballbearing.

Step 1:
First we take out the front ball bearing(also if you only need to remove the rear ball bearing), to do so insert 39016 trough the hole of the rear cover and main ball bearing so that the HEX screw is visible trough the front ball bearing.
Now mount the 39017 (for 3,5cc engines) onto the HEX screw in a way that the hollow part of 39017 covers the front ball bearing and it is resting on the engine crankcase.
To remove the front ball bearing, tighten both ends until you hear a "klak" sounds, you will also notice that you don't need force to continue to tighten both end's.
At this point the front ball bearing is removed from the engine crankcase.
Unscrew both end's and you find your old front ball bearing inside 39017.

Step 2:
Now insert the 39017 with the correct bearing adaptor into the main ballbearing trought the rear cover opening, and insert 39016 (with conus!) trough the opening of the front ball bearing and screw both parts into eachother until they are tightly locked.
At this point you need to unscrew the ring that is mounted on 39016 until it locks against the engine crankcase.
To remove the main bearing, hold the ring and the crankcase with one of your hands and use your free hand to turn the ballbearing extractor, on one of the both ends (this could be done by turning partnr. 39016 or partnr. 39017)
You can hear a "klak" when bearing comes loose, and you can see it if you look down the opening of the sleeve.


If the ball bearing adaptor slips out of the main bearing's inner race, then you need to retighten both ends.
This will cause the adaptor to expand because it is forced by the conus.

To adjust a venturi, unscrew the needle.
The engine will four-stroke slightly.
Now close the needle half a turn at a time, the engine will start to increase the RPM until you reach the maximum RPM, If the RPM drops after your last half a turn simply means you went to far, try reopening the needle to get the optimum carburetion.

The NOVAROSSI BallBearingExtractor is sold assembled and is very easy to use.

When using the following guidelines you can remove the ballbearings in a matter of minutes.
These steps below aplies to all R57 & R91 REX engines.

Preparations: Before you start to remove any ball bearing from your engine, remove the:
- rear cover;
- glowplug;
- coolinghead;
- combustion chamber;
- sleeve, piston&conrod assembly;
- crankshaft.

Even if you only need to change the rear ballbearing you need to remove the front ballbearing.

Step 1:
First we take out the front ball bearing (also if you only need to remove the rear ball bearing), to do so insert (39492) trough the hole of the rear cover and main ball bearing so that the HEX screw is visible trough the front ball bearing.
Now mount the (39493) onto the HEX screw in a way that the hollow part of (39493) covers the front ball bearing and it is resting against the engine crankcase.
In order to remove the front ball bearing, tighten both ends until you hear a “klak” sounds, you will also notice that you don’t need force to continue to tighten both end’s.
At this point the front ball bearing is removed from the engine crankcase.
Unscrew both end’s and you find your old front ball bearing inside (39493).

Step 2:
Now insert the (39493) with the correct bearing adaptor into the main ballbearing trought the rear cover opening, and insert (39492) (with conus!) trough the opening of the front ball bearing and screw both parts into eachother until they are tightly locked.
At this point you need to unscrew the ring that is mounted on (39492) until it locks against the engine crankcase.
To remove the main bearing, hold the ring and the crankcase with one of your hands and use your free hand to turn the ballbearing extractor, on one of the both ends (this could be done by turning partnr. 39492 or partnr. 39493)
You can hear a “klak” when bearing comes loose, and you can see it if you look down the opening of the sleeve.

If the ball bearing adaptor slips out of the main bearing’s inner race, then you need to retighten both ends.
This will cause the adaptor to expand because it is forced by the conus.

Yes,
The CR9 pipe is a direct fit to the R91F engine.
However, for the R50F you need an adaptor (partnr: 21361) to use with the CR5 pipe.
The R60F engine requires also an adaptor (partnr: 21461) to be fitted with the CR6 pipe.

download the pdf.

The results of test show that forced convection heat transfer rates can be enhanced by up to X using low profiles cooling design. With the low profile heat sink, the measured temperatures on its surface can reach 15 to 20 °C / 59 to 68° F higher than normal because the temperature detection is done close to the glow plugs.

Minor curvilinear length exhaust system (manifold short): You get less acceleration at low RPM and increased top speed.
Increased length curved exhaust system (manifold long): You get more acceleration at low RPM and a reduction of top speed.
Conical exhaust manifold: Top speed higher, higher acceleration and higher fuel consumption.
Exhaust manifold normal: Top speed lower and lower fuel consumption.

Large Diameter Venturi: Increase consumption but also the top speed
- Small Diameter Venturi: reduce consumption but also the top speed

R26CR
Sport Flying 8x6 or 9x5 inch props
3D Flying 9x4 inch prop

R46CR
Sport Flying 10x6 or 11x5 inch props
3D Flying 11x4 or 12x4

R56CR
Sport Flying 10x7 or 11x6 props
3D Flying 12x4

R60CR
Sport Flying 11x7 or 12x6 props
3D Flying 12x4 or 13x4

R90CR
Sport Flying 13x6 or 13x7
3D Flying 14x4

- It’s about 4 Nm.

You have to use the right tools to remove the new patented rear bearing from the keep-on engines.

NOVA BEARING PULLERS ALONG WITH.

- Specific bearing removal tool : Cod. 39609 for 2,1cc or Cod. 39014 for 3,5cc.
- Specific pliers for Keep-on : Cod. 39611 for Keep-on.12 or Cod. 39018 for Keep-on.21 engine.

The use of these tools is absolutely recommended to prevent you from compromising the engine's performance.